Edith Falls is only 61 K's from Katherine but we needed to arrive as early as possible as bookings work on, one leaves, one gets in basis. So we arrived early and were rewarded by getting a beaut site and having plenty of the day left to investigate the Falls. The falls are in three areas, the first is only 500 meters from our site, the second a 2.6 K walk and the third 3.8 K further. We decided to begin with the 2.6 K loop, choosing to start with the 1.6 K leg first. A hot day and our fitness level out of control, we were panting like Puffing Billy by the time we reached the fall, we found the waterfall and plunge pool to be very delightful, even more so when we jumped in and went for a swim and explore. The scenery an absolute delight, it was really worth the walk, however we decided that the extra 3.8 K's to the third fall on such a warm day might be stretching the resources, so we wandered back to the lower pool and were once again impressed with the beauty of the surrounds. I would suggest to anyone visiting this spot to allow more time than one night, it is really worth a few nights and be prepared to walk.
A very pleasant, relaxing evening followed. Much as we enjoy the happy hours, they sometimes become a little constant, so a night by ourselves under the stars was really enjoyable.
Sunday the 4Th June headed to Kakadu National Park and into a park at Cooinda, this area also referred to as Yellow Water is adjacent to the Wetlands of Kakadu, so we invested in some really good insect repellent (bushmans) and settled in. The park is nice and the pool is a welcome place to visit in the heat. We visited the Aboriginal interpretative centre and found the displays to be interesting. This area has a long been a favorite place for the indigenous people to live because of the availability and variety of food. Our main purpose in visiting this area is to be part of a tour called "Animal Tracks" which we did the next day. This tour teachers us about "bush tucker" and how traditional aborigines lived and still live. We were picked up at the park by our guide Shaun and taken about 20 K's into the park to an aboriginal Buffalo Farm. Here the buffalo are farmed and kept off the sensitive wetlands by huge electric fences, 3 of the buffalo are butchered each month and delivered to different aboriginal communities. The farm is not Government subsidised, so part of the money we payed for the tour goes toward the running of the farm. At the farm we saw two salt water crocs who were both monsters and very aggressive, so we were very glad there was a big strong fence around the enclosure. There was also feral pigs kept and a range of turkeys and chooks. We met our aboriginal guide called "Patsy" and set off too the nearby wetlands where we saw many ducks and waterbirds and a couple of croc's
A drive around the wetlands to view different water birds and also Patsy showed us how to find the bulb and stem of the waterlily, both of which we tasted. The bulb tasted OK but the stem was ordinary. We then went along a creek bed, and learnt how to find freshwater mussels and also how to make a bark basket to carry them in. Next we learnt how to identify the edible core wood of the small palm tree and how to get it and eat it, it tasted great, with an unusual nutty flavor. Then it was off to dig for bush carrots and collect palm leaves and gum leaves for cooking. In the process of looking for all this we tasted ants which had a citrus flavor and we saw buffalo wandering the bush.
Then it was off to a spot along the wetlands shore where we helped prepare dinner aboriginal style, cooked in the coals under gum leaves with paperbark over the top to hold in the heat. We also watched the beautiful sunset as Patsy taught how to weave shredded palm leaves into string. In the light of dusk we ate Barramundie,buffalo,wild duck,mussels,bush carrots and damper cooked in the coals. Billy tea washed down the food and as dark began to set in we made a hasty exit before the snakes got on the move. The way back to the farm we were entertained by Patsy relating stories of her childhood with her father, a noted buffalo hunter and obviously a man much loved and respected by his daughter.
A little more about Patsy, it is hard to estimate her age but I would think late 40 to early 50 would be close. She is married to the manager of the Buffalo Farm and lives happily on the farm seldom visiting towns. She prefers traditional bush tucker and although living in a campervan obviously spends most of her time outdoors. She has recently recovered from a breast cancer incident, but to me she did not look all that well. She is a happy person who does not drink alcohol and I found very interesting to talk to. I could not help but like her and I hope she stays well and happy.
After dropping Patsy back at the farm, Shaun talked all the way home about his feelings and thoughts on aboriginals. Basically he feels that it will take a long time for them to become "Farmers and Collectors" like us. Changing from "Hunters and Gatherers" type culture where they share everything will take many generations and there is no easy solutions to the alcohol problems they encounter. For once in my life I have no idea how we can help. I can comprehend the culture, and I see the need to change but how?
Overall this tour was worthwhile and I am sorry if I bored you with the detail but I feel better equipped to understand the aboriginal culture than before and I wanted share that.
Next day off to Jabiru, smoko at the local bakery, and lunch at the "Bark Hut Inn" and into Darwin.
We have a one night stay at Howard Springs Caravan Park where we caught up with L and P (sorry about the initials but as someone pointed out to me it can be offensive to use someones name without their permission) we enjoyed a good night and meal together. Moving in the morning to Freespirit Caravan Park closer to Darwin City
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