It was our aim to use this drive as a test on us, the van and car as to whether we would continue on the dirt section of the Savannah Way. I was well pleased with all three and happy to proceed. Burktown has heaps of history attached to it, and for its size exhibits some residential pride in its appearance. The caravan park was pretty much full when we arrived and by nightfall was turning people away, it was nothing fancy, but comfy for the night.
Research with fellow travelers and the tourist info officer told us that the Savannah Way was blocked at Calvert River, but there is an alternate route called the Calvert Creek road 20 K's back from the River. The Rivers up here are not like the ones at home, they are spring fed and the level takes ages to recede, in some cases months. There is also the added problem of crock's, which restricts access to the waterways.
Anyway we decided to stick to our plan of visiting the Lawn Hill National Park and proceeding from there, so next morning it was off to Gregory Downs, once again a dusty road with the addition of mining road trains. Gregory Downs is basically an old Pub and public toilets and showers, however 200 meters away is a camping spot on the Gregory River (a free camp woo hoo), it is a beaut spot on a lovely little river (during the dry season). We set up camp and really enjoyed our night until about 5:30 in the morning when a road tanker came in to fill up with water right beside our van. Pack up and onwards to Lawn Hill, the road is really dusty, so much so that when a mining road train passes you have no option but to stop, because you cant see a foot in front. That creates the danger of someone running into your back. Oh the trials of being on the road.
Lawn Hill has two camping grounds, one called Adel's Grove and the other a National Park Camp, 10 K's away at Lawn Hill. We booked into the latter and arriving after lunch found a good site, no power and cold showers but flush toilets. This will test our refrigeration resources after 4 nights of no power, and not allowed to run our generator. A brief walk that afternoon had us wondering what the hell we were doing here, the wet season had left much debris in the river area and there appeared to be an oily slick on top of the water. Oh well, a few glasses of red and a nice meal soothed the troubled soul. Next morning we went on a walk and started to see the beauty of this place. Awesome cliffs, colors and very pleasant walks, the afternoon, saw us sitting in spa pools in the creek, enjoying the atmosphere and feeling that we were part of some thing special, a real dream time location. Perhaps aboriginal culture based on tribal culture over many years has a basis in the beauty and the mystic quality of the country.
Yet again a red wine dinner after a hot shower (I found the solar shower) and all is good in the world. We set ourselves to arise early and walk the "Stacks Walk" to catch the sunrise. We were pretty much on time when we took off, the walk was harder than we thought, but after much urging we enjoyed a spectacular sunrise on the lookout. I must say that the walk up the stack was scary but nothing compared to the walk down, the steepness comes home to you when you are trying to get your feet on little ledges on a cliff face. One thing about fear it gives you a great lift when you conquer it and get home safe, breakfast was a big high and after a rest we decided on an impulse to walk to the " falls". Being only a kilometer walk I did not bother to don shoes, walking in thongs. The walk was good, through interesting country side, we eventually came over a ridge and was greeted with one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen. A high level pool feeding into a lower pool through four different falls, falling about 3 meters, in a semi circle. It was so beautiful that we just sat and looked in disbelief, after a while we walked down and went for a swim across to the falls, we had the place to ourselves. Fish swimming with us,
the feeling was ethereal and totally unforgettable. Freshwater crocks are also local, but are generally wary of humans so not a worry, eventually as the sun started to descend we decided to return to camp. We started to walk the 3.8 k long way back but with thongs on and daylight running out, we had to turn back and take the quick way home. Yes red wine again, elation being the emotion, very pleased with ourselves, but very sore muscles.
Next day we returned to the falls better prepared, with food and drinks and shoes. We met canoeists and had to share the spot but it was still great. We decided to walk the long way back and all was great till the last k when we had to walk down the steepest, scariest cliff face I have ever seen, I still get a knot in my guts when I think about it, however we survived and our trip to Lawn Hill coming to an end we prepared to leave in the morning. I can recommend Lawn Hill to anyone that appreciates natural beauty and is prepared to do tough walks to see one of the truly beautiful areas of this country.
Next morning off to Adel's Grove for a restock and fuel and head towards Doomagee back on the Savannah Way. After 80 K's up a pair of wheel ruts, we turned a corner and saw the Elizabeth Creek. This was the biggest bloody creek I have ever seen, 100 meters wide, flowing like the clappers and after wading half way across it was waist high (I was told later it is lousy with salties, but they only bite on your third trip through). Our Savannah Way dream just came to and end, we turned around and headed back to Gregory River for a free camp for the night. We were bitterly disappointed but not prepared to risk our rig, being mindful that in 80 K 's we had not seen another soul and were totally on our own. At least we gave it a good try and will try again in the future.
Real Time........Now in Darwin, sixth night, all is well, getting car and van serviced and regrouping for the Western leg.....Robby
No comments:
Post a Comment