Darwin Nowtime

Just managed to load a photo, it was not the one I wanted so I am going to try again

Edith Falls and Kakadu

Edith Falls is only 61 K's from Katherine but we needed to arrive as early as possible as bookings work on, one leaves, one gets in basis. So we arrived early and were rewarded by getting a beaut site and having plenty of the day left to investigate the Falls. The falls are in three areas, the first is only 500 meters from our site, the second a 2.6 K walk and the third 3.8 K further. We decided to begin with the 2.6 K loop, choosing to start with the 1.6 K leg first. A hot day and our fitness level out of control, we were panting like Puffing Billy by the time we reached the fall, we found the waterfall and plunge pool to be very delightful, even more so when we jumped in and went for a swim and explore. The scenery an absolute delight, it was really worth the walk, however we decided that the extra 3.8 K's to the third fall on such a warm day might be stretching the resources, so we wandered back to the lower pool and were once again impressed with the beauty of the surrounds. I would suggest to anyone visiting this spot to allow more time than one night, it is really worth a few nights and be prepared to walk.

A very pleasant, relaxing evening followed. Much as we enjoy the happy hours, they sometimes become a little constant, so a night by ourselves under the stars was really enjoyable.

Sunday the 4Th June headed to Kakadu National Park and into a park at Cooinda, this area also referred to as Yellow Water is adjacent to the Wetlands of Kakadu, so we invested in some really good insect repellent (bushmans) and settled in. The park is nice and the pool is a welcome place to visit in the heat. We visited the Aboriginal interpretative centre and found the displays to be interesting. This area has a long been a favorite place for the indigenous people to live because of the availability and variety of food. Our main purpose in visiting this area is to be part of a tour called "Animal Tracks" which we did the next day. This tour teachers us about "bush tucker" and how traditional aborigines lived and still live. We were picked up at the park by our guide Shaun and taken about 20 K's into the park to an aboriginal Buffalo Farm. Here the buffalo are farmed and kept off the sensitive wetlands by huge electric fences, 3 of the buffalo are butchered each month and delivered to different aboriginal communities. The farm is not Government subsidised, so part of the money we payed for the tour goes toward the running of the farm. At the farm we saw two salt water crocs who were both monsters and very aggressive, so we were very glad there was a big strong fence around the enclosure. There was also feral pigs kept and a range of turkeys and chooks. We met our aboriginal guide called "Patsy" and set off too the nearby wetlands where we saw many ducks and waterbirds and a couple of croc's

A drive around the wetlands to view different water birds and also Patsy showed us how to find the bulb and stem of the waterlily, both of which we tasted. The bulb tasted OK but the stem was ordinary. We then went along a creek bed, and learnt how to find freshwater mussels and also how to make a bark basket to carry them in. Next we learnt how to identify the edible core wood of the small palm tree and how to get it and eat it, it tasted great, with an unusual nutty flavor. Then it was off to dig for bush carrots and collect palm leaves and gum leaves for cooking. In the process of looking for all this we tasted ants which had a citrus flavor and we saw buffalo wandering the bush.

Then it was off to a spot along the wetlands shore where we helped prepare dinner aboriginal style, cooked in the coals under gum leaves with paperbark over the top to hold in the heat. We also watched the beautiful sunset as Patsy taught how to weave shredded palm leaves into string. In the light of dusk we ate Barramundie,buffalo,wild duck,mussels,bush carrots and damper cooked in the coals. Billy tea washed down the food and as dark began to set in we made a hasty exit before the snakes got on the move. The way back to the farm we were entertained by Patsy relating stories of her childhood with her father, a noted buffalo hunter and obviously a man much loved and respected by his daughter.

A little more about Patsy, it is hard to estimate her age but I would think late 40 to early 50 would be close. She is married to the manager of the Buffalo Farm and lives happily on the farm seldom visiting towns. She prefers traditional bush tucker and although living in a campervan obviously spends most of her time outdoors. She has recently recovered from a breast cancer incident, but to me she did not look all that well. She is a happy person who does not drink alcohol and I found very interesting to talk to. I could not help but like her and I hope she stays well and happy.

After dropping Patsy back at the farm, Shaun talked all the way home about his feelings and thoughts on aboriginals. Basically he feels that it will take a long time for them to become "Farmers and Collectors" like us. Changing from "Hunters and Gatherers" type culture where they share everything will take many generations and there is no easy solutions to the alcohol problems they encounter. For once in my life I have no idea how we can help. I can comprehend the culture, and I see the need to change but how?

Overall this tour was worthwhile and I am sorry if I bored you with the detail but I feel better equipped to understand the aboriginal culture than before and I wanted share that.

Next day off to Jabiru, smoko at the local bakery, and lunch at the "Bark Hut Inn" and into Darwin.

We have a one night stay at Howard Springs Caravan Park where we caught up with L and P (sorry about the initials but as someone pointed out to me it can be offensive to use someones name without their permission) we enjoyed a good night and meal together. Moving in the morning to Freespirit Caravan Park closer to Darwin City

Daly Waters to Katherine

NOWTIME: Still in Darwin, Sunday morning 18 July, Jude cooking breakfast, So I am still catching up with the blog. The great news in the last 24 hours, Collingwood on top of the ladder, and with much depth in the side looking good for the finals. But its not September yet.

Renner Springs in our rear vision mirror, we are off to Daly Waters Pub. I have been looking forward to this visit for a long time, I have seen so much about the Pub and I was not disappointed. The Pub is absolutely a must see, it is very well organised for the visitors. We booked in at the Pub for Beef and Barra Dinner and a Powered Campsite for $75 for both of us. By nightfall the camp-sights were full and non powered were also full, the Pub coped with the crowd really well. The bar is full of curio's and historic objects and the news paper cuttings displayed relate the interesting history of the place. The ceiling is covered in bras, undies and other relics of peoples visits, which makes for a colourful display.

Happy hour is also a colourful event, you order a beer and the barmaid tosses you heads or tails and if you win you get your beers free. We did quite well at this, when we realised that Heads were dominating. We were joined for the evening meal by Linda and Pierre from Perth (also having sold their home) and Cheryl and Steve from Geelong Area. The food was excellent, with prime steak and barramundi cooked on the Barbie and quality salads, once again well organised with the steaks cooked to your liking and your name called when ready. Entertainment provided by two different singers, the first singing front label hits from the 60/70 ies and the second is an interesting man called "The Chook Man" who is a quirky chap who performs with a rooster either on a perch beside him or with him on his head. He refers to the rooster as a trainee eagle and remarkably the "eagle" enjoys his performance. Chookman sings a lot of his own songs, relates some bush poetry and humour. In this setting I do not think you could get anyone more appropiate to entertain, all in all we had a great night that we will remember for a long time.

Sadly we packed and after a brief visit to a world war Hanger, with the history of WW2 activities, we headed to Mataranka Springs Homestead a journey of 180 K,s. We met up with Cheryl and Steve at the springs, and after a good soak in the warm water, we enjoyed a happy hour together. We suspected that we would have an interesting night when 5 bus loads of teenagers arrived to camp and there was also live music at the bar and yes they did party, but were not too bad.

I think that the Springs were probably worth another night's stay, but we moved on to Katherine early the next day because we did not have a booking and needed to be there at 10 o'clock to give us a chance of getting a sight. Katherine has quite a few caravan parks but all are full every night and with school holidays in N.T the situation is quite tight.

We were extremely lucky to get a sight at Low Level Big 4 and settled in for a four night stay. The first thing we did was head to a Telstra shop and signed up for a wireless Big Pond connection and get back on the net (really missed the communication and research value of the internet). While shopping we ran across Linda and Pierre and Cheryl and Steve, so we all visited a camping shop and had a little spend up. We all met up at Happy Hour by the pool and enjoyed each others company and the free music, decided as our sight was beside the bar/pool area, we would all meet at our caravan the next night.

Katherine is a community with some problems which became obvious when we visited the local supermarket. Alcohol is available from 2 pm till 4 pm and licence and photo I.D are required to purchase. A limit is placed on how much alcohol is purchased per day and there is a line up waiting to be served. There is a police station in the complex and officers patrol the shopping center constantly. There appear to be many people just hanging around, some obviously affected by alcohol, others just appear "lost". There is a community patrol that operates of an afternoon (aboriginal police) We noticed two paddy wagon type vehicles patrolling the streets. They collect people that are under the influence and take them to a dry out center to be released the next day. I think this is a positive move as it lessens the crime rate and keeps them safe. The week before we arrived a man was murdered for his "IPAD" and a woman killed in a domestic dispute.

I think when in Katherine it would be a good idea to be off the streets after dark and not to camp by yourself.

Thursday the 1st of July we went on a tour of the Katherine Gorge, our guide was a Spanish guy who came to Aus loved the place and stayed. He knew heaps about the Gorge and aboriginal culture and dreamtime legends. The tour involved changing boats at each Gorge, after a short walk, the tour culminated in a walk to a waterfall and croc free pool for a swim at the third Gorge. The waterfall fell in a line of fine droplets in the pool below and looked quite spectacular. We found out later that they closed the pool after our visit because of the green tint that we noticed. There was not enough water flowing to keep the pool fresh. The Gorge was worth a look but we felt that the organisation was very poor and a lot could be done to not keep the customers waiting so long. The freshwater Croc's were huge but very shy and quite happy to take off when approached.

Next night we booked on a tour of the lower Katherine River which left late afternoon from the Homestead Caravan Park down the road. The tour involved spotlighting Croc's from the tour boat, the boat eventually pulling into the bank beside a large Croc where we alighted to have dinner. The large freshwater Croc beside the boat was called "Mouse" and has been part of this tour for many years, the guide rattled a tin bucket and Mouse came up the bank to within 3 feet of the guide and us, she fed the Croc and he wandered back to the water and watched as we enjoyed a steak washed down with red wine. It was a very enjoyable night where we met up with people that we camped with at Daly Pub.

Next morning we packed to head toward Edith Falls..........More soon

Gregory Downs to Northern Territory

Yet another pack up and forward towards our next destination "Cloncurry". The road consisted of a strip of bitumen in the middle, so it's an off the shoulder move when confronted with oncoming traffic, but a lot better than the dust.

Boring trip to the "Bourke and Wills Roadhouse" 144 K's. The roadhouse is another thriving enterprise, manned by backpackers from all over the world. Really bizarre going to an outback roadhouse and having a pretty you French girl speak to you in broken English. Anyhow watched T.V over lunch and caught up on world news, not much changes. Another 181 K's into Cloncurry and into a lovely park with a magical feature, a power point, what luxury. Very dry in the Curry, which worked for us because we were allowed to wash the red dirt off the car and van (the grass got watered). Judy restocked the supplies and we enjoyed a pleasant happy hour with fellow campers.

Not much to keep us in the Curry so off towards Mount Isa an easy 121 K's and pretty good scenery. Mount Isa, we decided would be a rest stop, so we booked in for three nights, shopped and generally did not worry about too much sight seeing. I went for a haircut and came back with a flat top and a step ladder (the ladder needed to spare the shoulder). The short hair vital because of the heat and bore water. I also had a tyre repaired, collected a nail somewhere along the track, all good now. We had a night out at the "Irish" Club, a typical club but good food. Nothing exciting about Mount Isa, except for the nights when the young people roam the streets attempting to impress all with their vocal power and concept of the English Language. I would think one would be better of staying home in Isa.

Friday the 25 Th, the excitement of Isa complete we headed off toward Camooweal. The Camooweal butcher had been recommended to us back in Albury so we were looking forward to sampling his wares, 189 K's later we found that he had closed and was now in Mount Isa still trading under the name Camooweal Butchery. However undefeated, we discovered that we could purchase his meat at the Post Office, where we also had lunch and bought some books. I am a little concerned that this town is a little confused but whatever works I guess. After on to the Northern Territory border, oops, missed the sign, a lost photo opportunity. Another 261 K's to the Barkley Homestead, which is also confused because it is a Roadhouse/Caravan Park. Over driving for the day, we set up and had a pleasant night. It is becoming increasingly obvious that there are many vans on the move, so many that we will have to make early decisions on where we stay, to avoid missing out.

Next morning it was off to Tennant Creek 214 K,s . Tennant Creek is 24 K's south of the three way junction (Stuart and Barkly Highways), so for 48 K's out of our way we get to see Tennant Creek. The best bit was saving 20 cents a liter on the fuel apart from that, there did not appear to be much happening at the Creek.

Onwards to Renner Springs, we did not originally intend staying here but when we arrived it did not look to bad, so we booked in. The amenities left a lot to be desired but the beer was cool and the owner was a complete character, a lawyer who got fed up with city life now happily running a roadhouse. He was a very funny man, who kept us entertained over a few beers, an educated man who relishes the characters he meets, as much as they enjoy his humor.

We have had many questions about the our unusual caravan usually resulting in showing them the van, at Renner Springs, Pierre and Linda from Perth approached us as we were setting up and talked for quite a while about the van, so much that they decided to also stay in the park overnight. So they joined us at the pub and we have become friends since, they have ordered an Eco Tourer and will pick it up in Melbourne later this year.

Nowtime: Just had the car serviced all good except for a problem with the exhaust. A challenge for tomorrow

More later....Robby

Burktown and Lawn Hill

Seventy K's back to Normanton, a few photos of the giant crock which is a replica of one shot locally years ago. Judy needed to pay a bill at the Post Office and get some cash from the bank, all simple tasks, made a little more difficult by having to negotiate your way around the Traditional Owners of the Land waiting for the pub to open. A quick fill up of Diesel and on our way to Burktown, its claim to fame is that it refers to itself as "beyond the bitumen". This section of the road is the beginning of the dirt part of the Savannah Way, complete with corrugations and clouds of thick dust. What fun, many people thrive on this type of driving, I personally don't mind a bit of off road stuff but I certainly don't go out of my way to find it.

It was our aim to use this drive as a test on us, the van and car as to whether we would continue on the dirt section of the Savannah Way. I was well pleased with all three and happy to proceed. Burktown has heaps of history attached to it, and for its size exhibits some residential pride in its appearance. The caravan park was pretty much full when we arrived and by nightfall was turning people away, it was nothing fancy, but comfy for the night.

Research with fellow travelers and the tourist info officer told us that the Savannah Way was blocked at Calvert River, but there is an alternate route called the Calvert Creek road 20 K's back from the River. The Rivers up here are not like the ones at home, they are spring fed and the level takes ages to recede, in some cases months. There is also the added problem of crock's, which restricts access to the waterways.

Anyway we decided to stick to our plan of visiting the Lawn Hill National Park and proceeding from there, so next morning it was off to Gregory Downs, once again a dusty road with the addition of mining road trains. Gregory Downs is basically an old Pub and public toilets and showers, however 200 meters away is a camping spot on the Gregory River (a free camp woo hoo), it is a beaut spot on a lovely little river (during the dry season). We set up camp and really enjoyed our night until about 5:30 in the morning when a road tanker came in to fill up with water right beside our van. Pack up and onwards to Lawn Hill, the road is really dusty, so much so that when a mining road train passes you have no option but to stop, because you cant see a foot in front. That creates the danger of someone running into your back. Oh the trials of being on the road.

Lawn Hill has two camping grounds, one called Adel's Grove and the other a National Park Camp, 10 K's away at Lawn Hill. We booked into the latter and arriving after lunch found a good site, no power and cold showers but flush toilets. This will test our refrigeration resources after 4 nights of no power, and not allowed to run our generator. A brief walk that afternoon had us wondering what the hell we were doing here, the wet season had left much debris in the river area and there appeared to be an oily slick on top of the water. Oh well, a few glasses of red and a nice meal soothed the troubled soul. Next morning we went on a walk and started to see the beauty of this place. Awesome cliffs, colors and very pleasant walks, the afternoon, saw us sitting in spa pools in the creek, enjoying the atmosphere and feeling that we were part of some thing special, a real dream time location. Perhaps aboriginal culture based on tribal culture over many years has a basis in the beauty and the mystic quality of the country.

Yet again a red wine dinner after a hot shower (I found the solar shower) and all is good in the world. We set ourselves to arise early and walk the "Stacks Walk" to catch the sunrise. We were pretty much on time when we took off, the walk was harder than we thought, but after much urging we enjoyed a spectacular sunrise on the lookout. I must say that the walk up the stack was scary but nothing compared to the walk down, the steepness comes home to you when you are trying to get your feet on little ledges on a cliff face. One thing about fear it gives you a great lift when you conquer it and get home safe, breakfast was a big high and after a rest we decided on an impulse to walk to the " falls". Being only a kilometer walk I did not bother to don shoes, walking in thongs. The walk was good, through interesting country side, we eventually came over a ridge and was greeted with one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen. A high level pool feeding into a lower pool through four different falls, falling about 3 meters, in a semi circle. It was so beautiful that we just sat and looked in disbelief, after a while we walked down and went for a swim across to the falls, we had the place to ourselves. Fish swimming with us,

the feeling was ethereal and totally unforgettable. Freshwater crocks are also local, but are generally wary of humans so not a worry, eventually as the sun started to descend we decided to return to camp. We started to walk the 3.8 k long way back but with thongs on and daylight running out, we had to turn back and take the quick way home. Yes red wine again, elation being the emotion, very pleased with ourselves, but very sore muscles.

Next day we returned to the falls better prepared, with food and drinks and shoes. We met canoeists and had to share the spot but it was still great. We decided to walk the long way back and all was great till the last k when we had to walk down the steepest, scariest cliff face I have ever seen, I still get a knot in my guts when I think about it, however we survived and our trip to Lawn Hill coming to an end we prepared to leave in the morning. I can recommend Lawn Hill to anyone that appreciates natural beauty and is prepared to do tough walks to see one of the truly beautiful areas of this country.

Next morning off to Adel's Grove for a restock and fuel and head towards Doomagee back on the Savannah Way. After 80 K's up a pair of wheel ruts, we turned a corner and saw the Elizabeth Creek. This was the biggest bloody creek I have ever seen, 100 meters wide, flowing like the clappers and after wading half way across it was waist high (I was told later it is lousy with salties, but they only bite on your third trip through). Our Savannah Way dream just came to and end, we turned around and headed back to Gregory River for a free camp for the night. We were bitterly disappointed but not prepared to risk our rig, being mindful that in 80 K 's we had not seen another soul and were totally on our own. At least we gave it a good try and will try again in the future.

Real Time........Now in Darwin, sixth night, all is well, getting car and van serviced and regrouping for the Western leg.....Robby

Karumba (Continued)

We were extremely lucky to get a site at "Gulf Country Caravan Park" it is usually booked out. We very quickly made friends with the next door neighbors, who brought us up to date with what happens around Karumba. Most visitors in Karumba are there to fish and after witnessing the action around the fish filleting table I could understand why. Just to give you an idea how many fish are caught daily in this Park, they have two wheelie bins at the filleting area and at the end of each day they are full of fish remains and are emptied before the next day. There are two other caravan parks also full of fisherman.
Having no boat is a major problem, I suggested that I would fish from the boat ramp pontoon and was immediately warned to watch out for the big lizard (crocodile) who frequents the boat ramp. Anyhow I tried the boat ramp and the beach over at the point with only a little tiddler caught and no sign of croc's.
We visited the local Barramundi farm which is run by volunteers who restock streams around the gulf area. It was really interesting to see how the process works and how simple it is when all the correct elements are in place. We also got to feed the huge fish used for breeding stock, they take the pilchards out of you fingers with such speed and force that it is hard not to jump back, swear and count your fingers. I am so looking forward to catching a barra.
We fished over at the beach beyond the point with no success, the highlight was when Robby walked over the sand dune and spotted a giant croc on the beach, frantically called Jude who counted 6 more along the beach. Upon closer inspection they all turned out to be rocks, but bloody hell they looked real. Guess we have crocks in our heads and are starting to see them every where. However the pub is located right at the river entrance beside the beach and the beer was cold and wet. We returned there the next day for the weekly market day and bought up on books and jam and stuff and sampled breakfast at the pub, all good.
We went to the local fish company's outlet and bought butterfly prawns for $15 a kilo ( big and beautiful). We also wandered to the local pub and had a few beers at the Animal Bar, the pain of isolation coming home to us when we paid $50 for a slab of mid strength beer and abandoned scotch for Jude when told it was $50 a bottle. A couple of bottles of "Passion Pop" at $10 a bottle had to do.
Next day we went for a sunset cruise along the river and out over the Gulf. Wine and prawns supplied and all was great except for 2 things, kids and teenagers. Parents save your money , kids and teenagers don't like romantic cruises, so don't bring them. Anyhow Judy took a series of photo's of the sunset that are brilliant and Robbie managed to get value out of the wine and prawns. Ever tried to hang onto a wine glass, peel a prawn, De-vein it while perched on a seat with people either side of you, it takes special talent, and I have it. Yum!
Our time at Karumba coming to an end, we attended the weekly get together at the caravan park to present the fishing prizes for the week, it was a good get together and it was obvious that many people make this an annual trek from down south so their annual holiday/winter escape is a great meeting up with old friends.
Packed up next morning and headed to the fish outlet, we bought a 5kg box of King Salmon fish wings for the road. A purchase which is sure to stretch our freezer capacity, but at $9 a kilo we could not resist, any way back to Normanton and the Savannah Way.

Mount Surprise to Karumba

Feeling a little jaded on leaving Bedrock Village we started toward Georgetown. Not expecting too much we were not disappointed. After refueling and restocking the larder, we visited the "Terrestial Center", which we found was all about ore and mining samples. Having little interest in this subject and discovering that there was a cost involved, we decided the cost did not match our interest level, so after a brief look at the foyer displays we headed off towards Croydon.

Arriving in Croydon we stopped at the very good tourist info center, we enjoyed a short video of the areas history and viewed the mining displays. The displays were excellent and the staff very helpful. We had lunch at a local cafe/supermarket and over a nice cuppa decided to move onto Normanton.

One hundred and sixty k's on we drove into Normanton. Sometimes in life, indeed many times, the vision of a place on the map, we have in our mind, is nothing like the reality of what you get when you arrive. And so it was with Normanton, even with the biggest event of the year in progress (the annual Rodeo) it is a very depressing place. I guess I have difficulty coping with aboriginal people just standing or sitting doing nothing, mostly under the influence of alcohol. I am intimidated by the sight of buildings with steel mesh over their windows and reinforced doors. I do not like to be threatened by the looks and body language of the young ones. I guess more than anything I am frustrated because I do not know how to change the way things are. And obviously the Government have no idea either because they have tried many different things over the years.

Anyhow even though we were tired we pushed on the 70 k's to Karumba.

We were lucky to get a site in Karumba Township, Karumba is a town in two places, the point at the entrance of the Norman River and the Town itself. It is basically a fishing village and port outlet for the Century zinc mine.

Real Time...We are now in Kakadu National Park awaiting the start of a tour, so I am out of time at the moment. I will continue later